At the far end of its gulf, Saint-Tropez has kept the layout of a small Provençal port: quays lined with ochre and pink façades, lanes climbing towards the Citadel and an old fishermen's quarter, La Ponche, open to the sea. Painters made it famous in the late nineteenth century, Paul Signac first among them, followed by film-makers and yachts. Behind the image, the village remains human in scale and is easily explored on foot.
The challenge is getting there: traffic heading for the peninsula funnels round the head of the gulf and builds quickly in summer. The sensible approach is to leave early, be dropped as close to the port as possible and leave the car to your chauffeur, who waits at the agreed point, takes you to Pampelonne or Ramatuelle in the afternoon and organises the drive back to Nice.