Once the capital of a powerful maritime republic, Genoa kept from its golden age the Strade Nuove and the system of the Palazzi dei Rolli, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Below those painted façades lies one of the largest historic centres in Europe, a maze of caruggi running down to the Porto Antico, redesigned by Renzo Piano. People also come for focaccia, pesto and the evening light on the Lanterna.
The city is steep and dense, and much of the centre is a limited traffic zone. Arriving with a chauffeur makes all the difference: you are dropped at the closest permitted point, explore on foot as you walk down towards the sea, then your driver meets you at the harbour or takes you on to Boccadasse. Genoa also works beautifully as a stop on the road to Portofino.